Difference between conventional oven with fan assisted and convection with fan assisted?
For all my recipes I have been baking using convention plus fan assisted option and my bakes turn out to be good. But now I have moved to new house where there is a convection oven. I tried my cookie recipe with convection plus fan option, my bake turn out over cooked on the outside and undercooked on the inside. What is the difference between convention oven with fan assisted and convection with fan assisted?
After googling for the difference, I am really confused whether convention oven can have fan? But I am sure the SMEG model I used before says «Conventional cooking with fan assisted».
6 Answers 6
They’re the same thing — convection ovens are also known as fan-assist ovens (see for example wikipedia), since they’re basically an oven with a fan. Maybe what you had previously was marketed as a fan-assisted oven, and threw out the phrase «conventional cooking» to emphasize that you can still do everything you conventionally could. But it sounds like you’re just talking about two different convection ovens here.
More likely, the problems you’re having are to do with either the convection being more efficient in your new oven, or the temperature control being off on one of the two. Ovens aren’t always perfect, so likely your new oven is hotter when you set it to a given temperature than the old one. It might also have a more efficient fan. You can probably learn to adjust by trial and error — reduce temperatures, and check things frequently until you figure out you’ve gotten it right. It might also be helpful to grab a thermometer and see if your new oven is lying to you about the temperature.
(If you were previously using non-convection recipes in a convection oven, without adjustment, then your old oven was probably either too cool or its fan wasn’t doing much. If you were adjusting recipes for convection previously, then maybe your new oven is hotter than it should be.)
They are definitely not the same thing. Fan-assisted conventional cooking blows air through the oven cavity, but the heat comes from the heating elements at the top and bottom of the inside of the cavity. Convection cooking circulates the air from the cavity over a separate heating element that is not inside of the cavity. This is an important distinction — Convection cooking results in dramatically lower cook times, while fan-assisted cooking reduces cook times, but not by as much.
Be careful with your terms:
- Conventional/traditional cooking is using the top and/or bottom heating elements with no fan circulation.
- Convection cooking is using a separate heating element with a circulating fan.
- Fan-assisted cooking is using the top and/or bottom heating elements with fan circulation inside of the cavity.
I own a business that services industrial ovens and Furnaces. and have been doing this for 0ver 30 years Your basic «home»oven is a true convection oven as was pointed above. The fan assisted oven (AKA mechanical convection oven) has airflow that increases the temperature accuracy up to 5-10 degrees in some instances as well as supplying greater uniformity of temperature throughout the oven interior The coolest places in an oven is at the 4 corners and air flow is a must to prevent this How important this is for cooking a pie I have no clue
Just a thought for you
Convection is using the temperature differential (differences) inside the oven cavity to circulate the hot air inside the oven. Heat rises, cool air sinks but the oven walls itself conducts heat away but the temperature will not be so even throughout the oven cavity. A fan assisted oven has a small fan to move the air around so the hot air is circulated quite well. But the shape and mass of the food as well as oven cavity design will affect how the air flows inside. The heating elements are in the same location as a convention oven. The bigger the fan the better. You food will be more crispy. A forced fan oven has the heating element(s) behind the fan so that the fan directs the heated air directly onto the food like a hot wind blowing on your face (but much hotter and with greater force. This is what an air fryer does essentially. I use one for roasting foods but not for baking. I use a fan assisted oven for baking and the fan is at the rear. The forced fan cooker has the fan and heating element at the top. It works great for what it was intended for and more akin to an active broiler but the heat is circulated with force all around the food as the food sits on a rack. Depending on your fan, and oven insulation, cooking times can be faster by 10-20%. The fan forced air circulating will accelerate evaporation so things get crisper faster. And yes you can put in a water bath.
There’s a difference between a convection (traditional) oven with fan assist mode and a convector oven. In a convection oven there’re heating elements inside the oven’s cavity that passively heat the air, relying on natural convection to spread the heat all around. Since most of the heat will rise to the cavity’s top and stay there, a fan assist option is offered to uniformely spread this heat around.
In a convector oven the heating elements are hidden and the fan is the principal heat source. You can tell that your oven is a convector because there are no heating elementes inside the cavity. If you turn the convector fan off, the oven cooking action will change from forced convection to natural convection, but it won’t be the same because the heating elements are not inside the oven’s cavity (negating most of the heating element’s IR radiation).
I have a convection oven and it does not have a fan in it. Now i can’t buy a oven with out it being a fan forced. There is a difference between the two. Plus when you see recipes they give both temperatures usually 20 degrees difference. So they are not the same.
-
Featured on Meta
Linked
Related
Hot Network Questions
Subscribe to RSS
To subscribe to this RSS feed, copy and paste this URL into your RSS reader.
Site design / logo © 2023 Stack Exchange Inc; user contributions licensed under CC BY-SA . rev 2023.10.12.43673
By clicking “Accept all cookies”, you agree Stack Exchange can store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy.
Top bottom fan что это
Enter your e-mail and password:
Reset your password
We have sent you an email to reset your password
Create My Account
Please fill in the information below:
- About The Appliance Guys
- |
- 1300 567 637
Item added to your cart
Top 10 Common Oven Settings Explained
For anyone who hasn’t been cooking meals or baking treats their entire lives, getting a new oven online or in-store is a challenge. Oven settings are confusing to the average Joe. The symbols are typically too vague to understand – user manuals aside.
Let’s see if we can explain some of the common oven symbols, settings and functions. We will only discuss the common ones, considering nearly every brand has a special brand-only function.
1. Conventional Oven
2. Full or Half Grill
3. Bottom Heat Only
4. Fan Forced
One of our favourite settings, fan-forced setting runs a fan with a heating element around it. This is typically symbolised by a fan inside a square with no lines or a fan within a circle around it inside the square. Fan forced allows for even distribution of heat in the entire oven, allowing for faster cooking times and even temperatures on all levels. This is ideal for batch baking where all levels need the same bake time.
5. Bottom Heat with Fan
This is represented by a fan with a line or bar on the bottom. This allows for a combination of fan forced function together with the bottom heat only. This has the same function as bottom heat only but it allows for an additional function of helping cook the top part with indirectly radiated heat. If you need the bottom to be crispy but the top to be cooked softly, this is the right setting. Bottom heat with fan oven function is perfect for pizzas, open faced pies and tarts.
6. Top Heat with Fan or Grill with Fan
This has a near similar function as top heat or grill only electric oven setting, represented by a fan symbol with either a line on top or a jagged line on top.
This allows for good distribution of heat around the oven and is a great setting to use for meats, poultries and BBQ. If you need to brown a casserole quickly, this is a great option to use.
7. Fan Forced Full Bake
This is the highest heat setting that you can put your oven, symbolised by two lines on top and bottom and a fan in the middle. This radiates heat from the top element, bottom element and the fan’s heating element, allowing for a very even distribution of heat in the entire oven. If you’re concerned that your bake goods or roasts may not cook evenly, you would want to use this function to make sure of even cooking all-throughout.
8. Defrost
This oven function is fairly common in many modern ovens but typically absent in older models. The defrost function is represented by a snowflake or a snowflake with a drop of water. The defrost function well… defrosts. It thaws frozen food and can be used to slowly increase the temperature of delicate foods.
9. Slow Cook
Another of the newer settings on electric ovens, this is characterised by a pot or casserole pot symbol. This symbol is designed to run on low consumption for low heat and very long cooking times. This is perfect for stews, casseroles and even some large meat BBQ like ribs and steaks.
10. Keep Warm
One of the more uncommon but useful function in electric ovens, keep warm is represented by a plate with steam lines on it. Keep warm keeps whatever is inside it warm until it is taken out. This is very low heat and it is used to stop the cooking but keep the food inside nice and piping hot. Great for preventing breads from going stale or keep foods moist for a slightly later time.
More Blogs
Four features every electric oven must have
What is a fan forced or convection oven?
The most Common Oven Settings, Symbols and Functions found in Australia
Should you purchase a Westinghouse AirFry oven?
Top 10 Common Oven Settings Explained
Why purchase your electric oven from The Appliance Guys?
Customer Service
- Terms of Service
- Refund policy
Quick links
- Oven Repairs
- Cooktop Repairs
- Dryer Repairs
- Washing Machine Repairs
About The Appliance Guys
- Appliance Knowledge Center
- Privacy Policy
- Refund Policy
Our Partners
- Stove Doctor Australia
- Home Appliance Installation
- Kardi Appliances
- Euromaid
- Beko
- Westinghouse
- Chef
- American Express
Check Warehouse Stock Level
PRICE BEAT POLICY
We’re different to other Australian retailers!
We have a policy of offering low prices on all brand new appliance every day direct to the public. We don’t have sales as we discount the recommended retail prices right down so you can be confident that you’re getting a great deal every time.
We have also joined a large buying group which gives us access to the lowest possible prices from all the leading appliance brands and on top of that, we constantly buy in bulk which allows us to pass on the savings to our customers even more!
We dare you to find it cheaper elsewhere!
We don’t want our customers to have to choose between the best service and the best price which is why we will now price beat every product with installation we sell against ANY retailer, we will beat any genuine offer with only on term and condition.
We have to be able to purchase the identical in the box product at the time of your price beat request. Just give our friendly customer service team a call with the product you’re interested in, along with the price you’ve found on the product and installation and we’ll happily take care of the rest.
The price must include all costs including the brand new appliance, delivery fee, basic appliance installation fee and old appliance removal fee. We look at the final combination price of the appliance, delivery and installation. If the price includes services we don’t provide, we will still beat the price, but may not beat the service.
If you have any questions in regards to our Price Beat Guarantee please give our customer service team a call on 02 9621 5440.
PC Airflow Guide: How to Set Up and Position Your Fans
Arranging your case fans properly helps your system run at peak performance. Here’s how to do it.
Computers rely on a steady stream of cool air to perform their best. There are many ways to arrange your case fans, and relying on the case or system manufacturer to choose that for you isn’t always the best choice. Opening up your PC case and rearranging components can be a daunting task. We’re here to help.
The good news is that fans are one of the simplest components inside your PC. They’re usually connected to clear mounting points and use only four screws to attach. Each fan uses a single connector for power, plus another if it has customizable RGB. There are a few things you need to know to get started organizing and arranging your fans. But once you do, arranging them for peak performance isn’t difficult or exceptionally time consuming.
Case Fan Basics
Before deciding how to arrange your case fans, there are a handful of things to know, including some key terms and specs. It’s important to choose the right fan for the job, and that they’re oriented and connected correctly. Here are the most important things to know.
Most Cases Come with Pre-Installed Fans: Most cases come with one or more fans already installed. Nearly all will include a rear fan to exhaust hot air out the back of your PC. The quality of case fans varies, but usually aligns with the quality of the case. The best PC cases often include very good fans, while lower-end options tend to use lower performance (and often louder) fans.
Fan Size: Fans come in a wide range of sizes, but the most common are 120mm and 140mm, with big 200mm spinners seeing a bit of a resurgence lately as well. The benefit to a larger fan is that it’s able to move the same volume of air at a lower RPM, thereby reducing fan noise. Be sure to check your case to see which sizes it supports and where they can be installed.
CFM, RPM and Noise: The volume of air a fan can move is measured in Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM). This number can range widely depending on fan size, RPM, and how it balances noise levels, but a “good” case fan will typically output upwards of 50 CFM.
RPM, or Rotations Per Minute, is how fast a fan spins. The higher the RPM, the more air it is likely to move; however, these high speeds often come at the cost of noise, measured in decibels (dB). A fan that spins exceptionally fast is likely to have a more powerful motor and to generate more vibrations that you’ll hear when using your PC. If fan noise bothers you, try to aim for a fan below 30dB.
When shopping for case fans, look for the best balance of CFM and dB that fits your budget. RPM is less important so long as the fan is able to move plenty of air without making your PC sound like a jet engine. If you’re technical and have a computer that supports it (prebuilt systems oftend don’t), you can even go into your system’s BIOS and create a custom fan curve to balance cooling performance with noise levels.
Another option is to add more or larger fans to your system. Since multiple fans and those with larger blades can move more air, making these changes allows you to run them more slowly, lowering the total noise of your system. Depending on the case fans you select, this can cost more than using fewer smaller fans but gives you some extra control over your PCs acoustics.
Fan Orientation: Like any fan, the blowers in your PC have intake and exhaust sides. If you’re not sure which is which, check the edges of the fan for a small arrow. Manufacturers will often place this symbol along one edge of the fan to indicate the direction of airflow. If this isn’t present, you can simply use your hand to feel the direction the air is moving. Usually, the pretty brand sticker is also on the intake side, since it’s more likely to be visible through glass or mesh side panels.
Installation: Installing case fans is very easy. Your case should have set mounting points on the front, rear, top, bottom, and sometimes even the sides. Every case supports certain fan diameters (usually 120mm and 140mm), so be sure to consult its documentation.
Installation is as simple as inserting the fan into the case, lining it up with the mounting holes, and screwing in four fasteners to lock it in place. Then, connect the power cable to the matching fan header on your motherboard (and RGB header if your fan has customizable RGB lighting). Removing the fan is just as easy: disconnect the fan from its power and RGB connectors, unscrew the fasteners, and you’re done. Of course, any time you are taking off your side panel to do something inside your system, be sure the system is powered down and unplugged.
The Fundamentals of Airflow and Case Pressure
Generally, the goal of positioning fans in a PC case is to create an airflow channel from the right side/front of your case to the upper left/rear. This channel should bring cool air across the CPU, GPU and other heat sensitive components and then exhaust out of the back and/or top. This path causes the air to heat up as it travels, creating a cycle of cool air in, hot air out.
Another important concept is case pressure. The amount of fans you have blowing cool air in versus exhausting hot air out will create positive or negative pressure. When they are perfectly balanced, this is considered neutral pressure.
Positive case pressure is when the fans are oriented to push more air into the case than out. Negative pressure is created when there are more fans blowing air out than sucking in. Neutral pressure is when there is an equal amount of intake and exhaust. Because computer cases are not sealed, and the number and power of fans can be mixed, you’ll usually lean slightly one way or the other.
While there are proponents of both positive and negative pressure arrangements, there are also benefits to both. A positive configuration makes sure your components are always fed with fresh, cool air (which has the side benefit of pushing dust away from your computer). A negative configuration quickly exhausts heated air so it doesn’t stagnate.
Both pressure systems can succeed at creating an airflow channel, so your components stay cool. Because of this, many users find it beneficial to balance their intake and outake fans, focusing more on the direction they would like the airflow to travel. Regardless which you choose, it’s wise to make sure your intake fans are blowing cool air toward your GPU and CPU as directly as possible. This means they should generally be on the front of the case, although if you have a case with a vented bottom and feet that lift it significantly off the ground, intake fans on the bottom can be a good option, too – just make sure your case isn’t sitting on thick carpeting, blocking fresh air from getting to the fans.
Common and Ideal Fan Arrangements
There are a number of different ways to configure your fans. The ideal fan arrangement is one that draws in lots of cool air with a direct path up and out of the PC. Beginning with the best configuration, but requiring the most fans, and proceeding to less effective arrangements, the most common fan configurations can incorporate both positive or negative pressure, depending on the number of fans used in each location.
Front, Rear, Top, and Bottom: In this configuration, the front and bottom fans draw air into the case, while the top and rear fans exhaust hot air out. This creates a clear channel across the core components of your computer while also feeding additional cool air directly upwards. It is similar to the traditional Front and Rear configuration (described below) but with added air volume to increase the rate of flow. This scenario provides cool air directly to the GPU and pushes that air upward, toward the CPU and exhaust fans.
Front, Rear, and Bottom Configuration: This fan arrangement is similar to the above, but relies on a single rear exhaust fan. It is still a very solid configuration, but is generally less effective due to the reduced exhaust out of the top of the case. If you’re considering this configuration and have more than one case fan at the bottom of the PC, consider moving it to the top of the case for the best cooling. That’s provided, of course, that your case has vents and fan mounting areas at the top.
Front and Rear Configuration: This is the most common cooling configuration and is how most PC cases with more than one included fan come pre-configured; this can work very well. In this arrangement, one or more fans draw air through the front panel of the case and blow it directly toward the motherboard. There, the air is consumed by the GPU and CPU and blown into the channel of the rear exhaust fan, creating a flow from front to back. Keep in mind, though, that this option won’t work nearly as well as it should if your case front doesn’t provide lots of airflow to your intake fans.
Front, Rear, and Top Configuration: This fan organization is all about drawing the air through the case. It can be less effective than the Front, Rear, Bottom configuration as it lacks the upward push the bottom case fan provides. Given strong enough front fans, this can still be an effective arrangement – again, provided your case front is well ventilated.
Top and Bottom (Chimney) Configuration: This configuration isn’t especially common these days, but is an option that can work well when mounting front and rear fans isn’t an option. In this arrangement, fans draw in air from below the case and blow it upward, across the motherboard, and exhaust it out of the top of the case. It is best suited for vertical mounted GPUs, as graphics cards plugged directly into the PCIe slot (when the motherboard is mounted in a standard orientation) can block the flow of cool air from reaching the CPU.
Rear Fan Only: Some PC cases, especially very cheap ones, come with a single fan. And when they have a single fan, it’s usually mounted in the rear exhaust. This is a poor solution and will only work well for low-end components. Without a source of cool air, components quickly become too hot. Air movement is minimal with this setup, so if you can, get another fan or two to mount at the front of the case for intake.
Front Fan Only: This configuration is perhaps the least effective, and is not a good cooling solution. With a single front fan, cool air is drawn in and then stagnates without an exhaust fan to draw it back out. Air temperature increases and that hot air hovers until it naturally rises out of the case.
If you only have two fans, we recommend positioning them in a front, rear configuration. If you have three fans and a dedicated GPU, we recommend placing them in the front, rear, and bottom of your case. With additional fans, consider the arrangement of your components, any wires or structures that might impede airflow, and position your fans accordingly to draw air in from the bottom right (front), flowing to the upper left (rear) of your case.
What About AIOs?
If you’re using an all-in-one CPU cooler, it will come with fans that should be mounted at the position recommended by the manufacturer. These components use special, high static pressure fans to force air through the tight fins of the radiator. There are particular fan arrangements that go along with these coolers, however.
Push: In this arrangement, the fans push air through the radiator. This is the most common configuration and the one manufacturers most often recommend. Depending on whether your case is mounted in the top (as pictured below) or the front of the case, this will either be pushing warm air out through the radiator and out of the case or cool air in through the radiator into the case. Ideally, any air that passes through the hot fins of the radiator will be immediately expelled from the case; however, mounting options and aesthetic needs can sometimes limit this choice.
Pull: A pull configuration reverses the fan position to suck air through the fin-stack. It is not as common and generally not as effective as push-oriented fans. The same principles about positioning and expelling warm air apply here.
Push-Pull: This is a popular choice that can increase the effectiveness of an all-in-one CPU cooler, but requires additional fans and space within your case. A push-pull configuration uses the AIO’s included fans to push air through the radiator and then one to three additional fans mounted on the other side, also oriented to blow in, pulling the air through. It makes for a bulky radiator but increases its performance overall.
Also note that, when possible, it’s best to mount your AIO at the top of your case (or the rear if it’s a 120mm AIO) rather than the front. This way, the heat that the AIO moves from your CPU to the radiator gets immediately exhausted out of the case. When a radiator is placed in the front in a pull or push-pull orientation, the cool air from the outside gets warmed by your CPU heat as it travels through the radiator, then into the case and across your other heat-generating components before being exhausted out of the rear and/or top. Obviously, having cooler outside air that hasn’t been pre-heated by your CPU is better for keeping your components cool.
Conclusion
Cooling is one of the most important considerations for anyone looking to optimize their PC. With this information, you’re armed to make the best decision for your particular setup. Ensure that your components have cool air and active airflow, choos one of the best CPU coolers that we’ve tested, and you’ll ensure the best PC performance possible this side of custom water cooling.
Stay on the Cutting Edge
Join the experts who read Tom’s Hardware for the inside track on enthusiast PC tech news — and have for over 25 years. We’ll send breaking news and in-depth reviews of CPUs, GPUs, AI, maker hardware and more straight to your inbox.
By submitting your information you agree to the Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy and are aged 16 or over.
Top bottom fan что это
I was told more fans in than out pushes dust out of tight areas (positive pressure). Would negative pressure pull dust out of tight areas just as well? Sacrifice flow for pressure? Negative pressure means less volume and should equal less dust but I think what you pull in is your volume of dust despite current case volume.
Everyone runs the bottom fan in because of gravity but there is so much airflow in the case gravity of denser and lighter air is almost irrelevant I think. Also I think the bottom is at risk for pulling in dust. I am using nice fan screens so I am more curious than concerned.
Currently my CPU runs 100f degrees max and GPU 155f max. My goal is extending life but I have no complaints of temps. I am adding and moving fans, check this out.
Fan locations:
-low and mid of front
-top of rear
-center of bottom
-left and mid of case top
Case is large and roomy.
Hard Drive is bottom right.
Power supply is bottom left.
Mother board is towards top left corner.
GPU must move — it covers the PCI-E for the sound card. S-card ribbon not here yet.
CPU heat sink is centered between the top fans.
No other components. Front drive slots are now mesh. (maybe bad for flow rate)
Now CPU: Currently I have the top fan (centered) blowing fresh air down before the CPU fan. so not to rob it of pressure and fresh air. The other top fan (other side of CPU sink) is pulling hot air out of the case just like the rear fan. This is giving me good temps and grate flow through the CPU heat sink. There is no collecting of warm air in the top of the case.
I have two front fans pulling fresh air in and one rear blowing out.
BIG QUESTION: The bottom fan? Do I blow in and have 4 in fans and 2 out fans with possitive pressure? Do I have it blow out for more total case flow? Do I follow the masses and flip the top fan to blow out in fear of gravity/densisty? I don’t have a fan for the bottom yet, but soon. What do you think? I think the top fan being intake is helping greatly, at idle my CPU is 66f degrees (room temp) and I think the bottom fan out will be best overall flow (3 in 3 out). I will be doing tests soon and will post the results of this odd setup and temps. If you try some top and bottom fan flipping post your temps.